A UNESCO listing in India (New Delhi) for Italy’s full body of cuisine at the 2023 20th session of the International Council meeting, is the first time Italy has added to its UNESCO intangible cultural heritage. This UNESCO listing represents a culmination of Italy’s social and cultural expression of love and caring through the practice of cooking and sharing meals — which is the essence of Italy’s culinary practices. Focusing on specific foods, eating and decoration practices, UNESCO has focused on individual aspects of Italy’s culinary arts.
The focus is now on Italian food, consumption and tourist adornment
Italian Food Historian, Pier Luigi Petrillo, describes cooking as an act of “love” and “concern” for others. Italy’s bid to be recognized as a UNESCO site in 2023, was to highlight not only the artistic technique and skills behind the culinary preparations, but also the biocultural and sustainable practices of Italian cooking, such as using olive oil in pressing, tomato harvesting and reducing waste in the kitchen.
Giorgia Meloni, Prime Minister of Italy, stated she was proud to see Italian food recognized by UNESCO.
Meloni stated that for Italians, food and the preparation of food, represent much more than just sustenance. Food and the preparation of food represent Italy’s history, culture, tradition, labor and wealth. Francesco Lollobrigida, Italian Minister of Agriculture, stated that the UNESCO status of Italian food will provide Italy with additional resources to safeguard its authentic products from imitations and false labels.
Industry spokespersons immediately described the designation as a “victory for all the producers of the ‘Made in Italy’ supply chain”, because of the blending of tradition and innovation in Italian food production, said Luigi Scordamaglia, CEO of Filiera Italia.
Filiera Italia and Coldiretti estimate the current value of the Italian agro-food industry to be €251 billion and increased by 5% over the last year.
UNESCO Heritage recognition is expected to increase tourism by 8%
The UNESCO Heritage listing is expected to increase tourism in Italy by 8% in the next 1-2 years, resulting in an additional 18 million overnight stays. Industry representatives expect the UNESCO listing will stimulate investment in the supply chains in the area, provide new opportunities for family-owned restaurants in a difficult and polarized market, and create new employment opportunities.
Concerns about the growing popularity of Italian food were brought to the forefront
The UNESCO listing represents as much a testament to Italy’s cultural diplomacy as it does a culinary honor. Identifying Italian cuisine with the fundamental components of a nation’s heritage indicates the promotion of a collective identity, characterized by strong social ties, common practices, and distinctive characteristics of each region.
The UNESCO listing also provides support to administrative efforts to prevent the use of terms such as “Italian sounding” in reference to fake products such as Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosecco.
Illustrating the importance of traditional food culture to the Italian public
To demonstrate the importance of traditional food culture to the Italian public, the Colosseum of Rome was illuminated, and cultural events were held throughout Italy.
UNESCO focuses on living traditions and practices of communities, and this listing identifies Italy as the active guardian of the country’s artisanal food practices, and the responsibility of continuous active intergenerational transmission of these practices and artisan food values, as well as the practices of food diversity and environmental sustainability.
In addition to this listing, Italy already had 21 entries on the list of intangible UNESCO listings. These listings included opera singing and pizza making, and this entry is an example of the cultural richness and complexity, and the international influence of Italian cuisine. This UNESCO listing is also an example of Italy’s culinary mosaic, consisting of buttery alpine cuisine, and olive-oil-based sun-kissed southern cuisine.
